What started as an expanded layover, ended up being one of the best trips I've had. I was lucky to have visited Istanbul just about a year before unrest in Turkey started to increase. Not once did I feel unsafe in this beautiful city. Istanbul would be the largest metro area in Europe, if it wasn't split between continents -- and the rich culture exemplifies that.
EXPLORE
Ferry to Kadıköy is fairly easy to do, and you'll see a whole other (literal) side of the city. Grab fresh mussels from street vendors followed by lahmacun, a light flat pizza of sorts that's eaten rolled up. Enjoy endless cups of tea, but do not miss the impromptu dancing circles that break out near the marina.
Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı will ruin showers for you forever. Beautiful and bright, this luxurious Turkish bath is set in a 16th century former mosque. Make a reservation for the morning, you'll feel amazing all day and it's the perfect pre-breakfast ritual.
Basilica Cistern is an underground water reservoir that was built in the 6th century for the Byzantium Emperor. Now, visitors make their way beneath the bustling city, to the explore the eerie ancient columns and medusa head sculptures.
Sultan Ahmed Mosque aka the Blue Mosque, is still an active and closes briefly for the five daily prayers. Between services, visitors can enter and marvel at the exquisite mosaics. Check the prayer schedule and come prepared with fully-covering clothing, a headscarf for women, and socks as you'll be removing your shoes upon entry.
Topkapi Palace and Harem a 15th century seat of power, turned museum complex. There are tons of spaces and gardens to check out, including an incredible view of the Bosphorus near the Golden Horn. The ticket add-on for the harem is definitely worth seeing the gilded labyrinth of living chambers.
SHOP
İstiklal Street is a steep lane near the Galata Tower, packed with storefronts and vendors selling fresh-squeezed orange juice. Stock up on cozy turkish towels (can also be used as a scarf or the perfect airplane blanket) then take the historic tram up to Taksim Square.
Grand Bazaar is a must, but come prepared for battle. Haggling and heckling abound, but you'll find treasures like sparkling lamps and handmade silver jewelry at great prices if you are persistent. Take a break and snack on simit bread with nutella and don't miss the nearby spice market for tea and turkish delight to bring back.
EAT
Ozsut's is the tastiest meal we had in Istanbul, I actually think about this place all the time. The owner wakes up every morning to milk his water buffalos on a farm outside the city, makes kaymak (clotted cream), then smothers it with honey -- and he'll sit down and tell you all about it. This dive is a little hard to find, but worth tracking down.
Dervish Cafe sits right on the edge of all the main sights and is the perfect spot for lunch between attractions. Enjoy outdoor dining, kebabs, friendly cats, and the enchanting calls to prayer.
Antiochia Concept is steps from the Şişhane metro stop and features dishes from Antakya, a city in Southern Turkey. Antakya was once known as Antioch, and was for centuries one of the largest cities in the Roman Empire. The food is lovely and the service is equally as good.
STAY
Airbnb in Karaköy / Beyoğlu is the perfect location, right in the middle of the action. Walkable to major sights, but in a more modern neighborhood. We stayed with some awesome people who took us out for dinner and drinks with their friends, generously giving us a real glimpse of their vibrant young lives. Careful not too drink too much raki with your pals!